Burgundy |
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Find your way in Burgundy
Text and photos by Panos Kakaviatos
But before leaving, I also tried a genuine Charolais steak, in a light cream sauce with bits of scallion, which lent the sauce a zesty lemon-like flavor.
The beef was sliced like butter; it was that tender. If in Burgundy, try the culinary magic of La Regalade.
Now it was time to visit some vineyards and taste some wines. The well-known Maison Louis Jadot in Beaune invited me to a barrel tasting of its
2004 wines, followed by older vintages at its chilly underground cellars (always bring a sweater, even if hot outside!). Founded in 1859, Louis Jadot
owns some 70 hectares of vines in Burgundy, but is most famous for buying grapes from private producers and then undertaking their vinification.
Pictured below, winemaking director Jacques Lardiere (pictured, below) has been with Louis Jadot since 1970 – since he was 22 – and proved a most
informative and passionate host. Some of my favorites include those tasted below, but I will soon publish all my notes.
Whites
Puligny Montrachet Folatieres (1er cru): White flower and black pepper aromas with mineral. Has a focused palate, with good acidity and an overall
supple feel.
Meursault Genevrieres: Wow, talk about grapefruit and lemon: this was very much so on the nose and on the palate, though with some buttery
overtones. I liked this wine a lot.
Corton Charlemagne (grand cru): Wild rose aroma with a long and intense palate. Some heat on the back end of the palate that I did not like that
much but remained intense and had very nice length, with an almond echo on the finish!
Meursault Blagny 2002: At this point, Lardiere pulled out some whites already in bottle. This 2002 is made from vines grown at 400 meters in
altitude. The wine is aged 14 months and it has a green apple nose, with a tight and structured palate and very good length.
Reds
Volnay Clos des Chenes: Very fine leather aromas with ripe red cherry and a hint of pepper. Palate is open and pleasant. This is a real pleaser!
Echezeaux (grand cru): This smelled of brand new leather with smoky, mineral notes as well. Tasted like fine salami with herbs and nuts. Quite a
nice animal-like wine.
Chapelle Chambertin (grand cru): Aromas are subdued but with coaxing, out comes some almond and cherry. The palate is very rich, with a tongue-
coating tannic presence and laser sharp intensity and finish. A serious – and seriously good – wine.
Vosne Romanee Grands Echezeaux 2002 (grand cru): From the bottle, oh my goodness, what an intense tobacco-like aroma! A very well-structured
palate, with much tannin and richness. The finish is long and pleasing, though this wine is far too young.
The presentation matched the taste, and this restaurant deserves every bit of its Michelin star… and more! Rooms at Le Montrachet have high
ceilings and are spacious (I also had a balcony), in the lovely classic-styled limestone hotel facing the restaurant. Owner Thierry Gazagnes proved a
gracious host and took his time over breakfast to explain why Burgundy wines can be so hard to find. Though he has been in Montrachet for some 20
years, he still is on a waiting list for some top wines – even though he has a Michelin-rated restaurant. Some wines are simply that rare! Just a few
steps away, his wife Suzanne runs a comfortable house-like inn, La Chouette, perfect for groups as it includes a kitchen if you choose to cook “at
home.”
Day three included visits to two more great Beaune-based wine producers. Maison Champy is one of the oldest Burgundy wine companies, founded
in 1720. Current owner Henri Meurgey has to be one of the most welcoming hosts I have ever come across – he prepared not only a tasting of 26
wines but also a delicious lunch in an enormous 350-liter sized barrel! His charming assistant Marion Robert poured wines in the laboratory-like
tasting room, and I remember tasting some real stunners, such as the white Corton Charlemagne grand cru 2000, aged 12 to 14 months in almost
100% new oak with very stony mineral aromas and a hint of honey and lime. Favorite reds included the affordable Savigny Les Beaune “Aux
Fourches” 2003. In Burgundy, wines are differentiated by categories: grand crus, premier crus, village wines and regional wines. Though the Savigny
included a place name on its label, it was not a premier cru – rather just named after a vineyard and still considered a village wine… It possessed a
very red cherry liqueur flavor, was ripe and rich on the nose and on the full-bodied palate. Another fine wine was the Clos de Vougeot grand cru
2001, whose cherry, strawberry and mentholated notes on the nose preceded a lovely palate with great flavor intensity – the most of all the reds at
this tasting.
- After the tasting, Henri and Marion (pictured above in three photos) invited me to a lunch of salad, chicken and cold cuts with two exceptional wines
in a great space called the La Cuve 17, literally a 350-liter oak vat converted into a dining area, decorated with photos of famous actors and
personalities who had visited the chateau, including Pierre Richard and Gérard Jugnot. Even more surprising were the wines served for my
companion who was born in 1961: a Corton Charlemagne dating from… 1961! This old yet still very vibrant white possessed aromas of nuts and
caramel, with clove flavors on the palate and went very well with the spicy jambon en croute. As the tasting of this almost half-century old white
continued, we noted hints of tobacco on the nose. Then came another 1961, the red Beaune Bressandes (premier cru) whose color was far from
brown with an initial nose of mushroom, but turning to truffle and leather. It was able to counter the powerful camembert and epoisse cheeses that
we enjoyed at the end of the lunch.
After lunch, I visited another legendary producer, Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880. A very jovial host, the 50-year-old Jean-Pierre Cropsal has
been working with Joseph Drouhin as a public relations representative since 1979. From Dijon on his grandmother’s side of the family and from
Nancy on his grandfather’s, he said that Bourgogne is best known as “a crossroads that necessitates diplomacy.”
Jean-Pierre explained that the whites come from vines planted on rockier soils, as the rocks “sharpen” or focus the white wine, whereas the Pinot
Noir’s tannin does not need sharpening, so reds tend to come from vines on more clay-like soil… which rounds out the tannins. Indeed, the red Clos
des Mouches 2000 possessed a peppery nose with raspberry and cherry flavors. We ended our tasting with a marvelous Mazis Chambertin grand
cru 1996 with truffle, leather and cherry liqueur flavors and a beautiful peppery intensity on the palate and a grainy texture and long finish.
- Fact: Almost all Burgundy wine worth its weight is named after places, not the grape: Almost all white Burgundy – whether Montrachet, Chablis,
Meursault or St. Aubin – is made from the Chardonnay grape. Almost all red Burgundy, with the notable exception of Beaujolais (also a
Burgundy wine) is made from the Pinot Noir grape. What makes the difference in flavor is the terroir of each place!
That night, I stayed in a convenient hotel in the center of Beaune called Hotel de la Poste – in a beautiful 19th century building (actually restored
from the 17th century) – once used as a post office. Each of its 27 rooms and nine suites (I stayed in a suite) offers a unique ambiance. If hungry, a
1930s style brasserie provides hearty Burgundy cuisine!
The hotel is a nice way to stay centrally located for further visits in Burgundy, such as my return to Puligny Montrachet and lunch at La Table d’
Olivier Leflaive, of the winemaking house of the same name. What makes lunch there so special is how you can taste wines along with the food in a
certain order – while charismatic host Pascal Wagner (pictured below with lunch guests) guides you through the flight of wines with very good food:
paté and foie gras followed by a Blanquette de Blancs de Volaille de Bresse au Miel (tender chicken filets with honey and carrots) accompanied with
perfectly cooked rice (firm and just a hint of crispiness)... As you eat, Wagner employs two large maps of the Cote de Beaune to explain where some
of the best wines come from there. The first wines tasted during the lunch (all white) are basic Burgundy wines, but then are followed by village and
premier crus, such as a truly fine Meursault premier cru Les Poruzots 2002.
In the afternoon, I drove north to meet Jean de Surrel of Domaine Henri Rebourseau in Gevrey Chambertin – the heart of the red wine region
Cotes de Nuits. Driving along the wine route, it is impressive to see the hilly wine fields that seem endless, but one should understand Burgundy
from the right perspective: not all wine is of the highest quality. Burgundy produces “only” 1,800,000 hectoliters of wine… out of the 58 million
produced in France each year on average. That is, just about 3 percent of French wine. But the grand cru vineyards of Burgundy produce on average
only 2 to 3 percent of that produced in all of Burgundy: at most about 60,000 hectoliters.
De Surrel had me taste samplings of the still-in-barrel 2004 vintage. Two of my favorites were the Chambertin (grand cru) with full-bodied and
savory nougat, violet and licorice flavors and the Clos Vougeot (grand cru), with mentholated aromas and flavors and intense black cherry.
Next stop: A visit to the great wines of the northern Rhone including Hermitage and Cote Rotie plus culinary delights from Vienne and Lyon!
Wine addresses
Maison Louis Jadot
http://www.louisjadot.com
Domaine Henri Rebourseau
http://www.rebourseau.com
Maison Champy
http://www.champy.com
Maison Joseph Drouhin
http://www.drouhin.com
Restaurants
La Table d’Olivier Leflaive
http://www.olivier-leflaive.com
La Regalade
Telephone: +33 (0)3 80 22 45 95
Le Montrachet
http://www.le-montrachet.com
Hotels
Hotel de la Poste
http://www.hoteldelapostebeaune.com
Villa Louise
http://www.villalouise.com
Le Montrachet
http://www.le-montrachet.com
As a wine writer and wine lover, the best thing to do is hit the road and taste the wines. This past
August, I did just that and am happy to report in these pages about the places I visited in Burgundy and
in the northern Rhone.
The trip began with a lovely reception at the Villa Louise in Aloxe Corton – in between the two
famous Burgundy regions of the Cote de Nuits (mostly red wine) and the Cote de Beaune (mostly white
wine), offering easy access to Burgundy’s great vineyards. Owner Veronique Perrin (pictured at right) is
charming and takes much time to describe Burgundy. Her grandmother was born in the cottage-like inn,
located at the foot of the famous Corton Charlemagne vineyard. Rooms are elegant, spacious, simple –
and affordable. The small cottage-like ambiance includes a mini pool and sauna – not without French
provincial charm: the translation for pool opening hours reads 8 p.m. to 8:30 a.m.! One of the best treats
was the elaborate breakfast for only 13 euros: fresh croissants, bread, cooked apricot in a very light
cherry sauce, mint leaf, charcuterie including rosette and jambon cru, comté cheese with freshly baked
spiced gingerbread and cornbread madeleines, plus fresh coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. One
can eat outside near the vines in the homey garden space or, if it is too cold, in the equally comfortable
indoor space.
August, I did just that and am happy to report in these pages about the places I visited in Burgundy and
in the northern Rhone.
The trip began with a lovely reception at the Villa Louise in Aloxe Corton – in between the two
famous Burgundy regions of the Cote de Nuits (mostly red wine) and the Cote de Beaune (mostly white
wine), offering easy access to Burgundy’s great vineyards. Owner Veronique Perrin (pictured at right) is
charming and takes much time to describe Burgundy. Her grandmother was born in the cottage-like inn,
located at the foot of the famous Corton Charlemagne vineyard. Rooms are elegant, spacious, simple –
and affordable. The small cottage-like ambiance includes a mini pool and sauna – not without French
provincial charm: the translation for pool opening hours reads 8 p.m. to 8:30 a.m.! One of the best treats
was the elaborate breakfast for only 13 euros: fresh croissants, bread, cooked apricot in a very light
cherry sauce, mint leaf, charcuterie including rosette and jambon cru, comté cheese with freshly baked
spiced gingerbread and cornbread madeleines, plus fresh coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. One
can eat outside near the vines in the homey garden space or, if it is too cold, in the equally comfortable
indoor space.
To eat a good meal in Burgundy, try to find out where the locals eat. Perrin told me to try
La Regalade just outside Beaune – and not far from the hotel. As I found out later, many
who live in Beaune will tell you to go there for “the real deal.” They are not mistaken. It
looks like a highway diner from the outside, indeed not far from the highway intersection
between Beaune and Aloxe-Corton, but owner and chef Maria Gonçalvez (at left, with
husband) knows how to make savory cuisine, fresh and in season. I just missed the
beginning of the frog leg season, she told me, but she prepared a truffle-focused series of
dishes to sample, including an oeuf brouille of scrambled eggs with pepper and truffles, a
cassoulet of escargots – wild and big – in a delectably light cream sauce with citron confît,
estragon and white Burgundy wine... plus a plate of thin goose liver slices marinated in
Meursault wine, and, finally, a plate of rich morilles mushrooms with truffles, all delicious.
Of Portuguese origin, Gonçalvez told me that actress Brooke Shields had dined at the
restaurant just eight days before; as she is a good friend of a local winemaker (she could not
remember which!).
La Regalade just outside Beaune – and not far from the hotel. As I found out later, many
who live in Beaune will tell you to go there for “the real deal.” They are not mistaken. It
looks like a highway diner from the outside, indeed not far from the highway intersection
between Beaune and Aloxe-Corton, but owner and chef Maria Gonçalvez (at left, with
husband) knows how to make savory cuisine, fresh and in season. I just missed the
beginning of the frog leg season, she told me, but she prepared a truffle-focused series of
dishes to sample, including an oeuf brouille of scrambled eggs with pepper and truffles, a
cassoulet of escargots – wild and big – in a delectably light cream sauce with citron confît,
estragon and white Burgundy wine... plus a plate of thin goose liver slices marinated in
Meursault wine, and, finally, a plate of rich morilles mushrooms with truffles, all delicious.
Of Portuguese origin, Gonçalvez told me that actress Brooke Shields had dined at the
restaurant just eight days before; as she is a good friend of a local winemaker (she could not
remember which!).
Heading further south the next day, I chose to stay in the heart of white Burgundy
country in Puligny Montrachet, at the hotel and one-star Michelin restaurant Le
Montrachet (at left). One should simply take a walk or ride a bike between
Puligny and Chassagne to see the vineyards sometimes indicated with elegant
stone portals – and I spent most of the day doing just that! In the evening, it was
time for dinner, and newly arrived chef Thierry Berger prepared a special meal. He
had worked before at the illustrious Hotel du Palais in Biarritz and the Hotel
Vernet in Paris, before preparing such creatively tasty concoctions as avocado
with a chorizo mousse, one of the most refreshing salads I have yet tried (thinly
sliced carrots, orange, red peppers, fennel and mushrooms with rose petals and
dandelions), and a very generous serving of Cote du Boeuf with rosemary and
peppercorns, accompanied by three small stuffed vegetables. The presentation
matched the taste, and this restaurant deserves every bit of its Michelin star… and
more! Rooms at Le Montrachet have high ceilings and are spacious (I also had a
balcony), in the lovely classic-styled limestone hotel facing the restaurant.
country in Puligny Montrachet, at the hotel and one-star Michelin restaurant Le
Montrachet (at left). One should simply take a walk or ride a bike between
Puligny and Chassagne to see the vineyards sometimes indicated with elegant
stone portals – and I spent most of the day doing just that! In the evening, it was
time for dinner, and newly arrived chef Thierry Berger prepared a special meal. He
had worked before at the illustrious Hotel du Palais in Biarritz and the Hotel
Vernet in Paris, before preparing such creatively tasty concoctions as avocado
with a chorizo mousse, one of the most refreshing salads I have yet tried (thinly
sliced carrots, orange, red peppers, fennel and mushrooms with rose petals and
dandelions), and a very generous serving of Cote du Boeuf with rosemary and
peppercorns, accompanied by three small stuffed vegetables. The presentation
matched the taste, and this restaurant deserves every bit of its Michelin star… and
more! Rooms at Le Montrachet have high ceilings and are spacious (I also had a
balcony), in the lovely classic-styled limestone hotel facing the restaurant.
Joseph Drouhin is based in the oldest Beaune building, dating from the 9th century
– and the site of meetings of Beaune’s medieval parliament. We went underneath
the some 1 ½ hectares of cellar space and entered what was once the parliament
room, now employed to organize meetings with producers who sell grapes to
Drouhin. It is an impressively elegant white-walled space: a Spartan style
decorated with bottles and maps of Burgundy.
“Burgundy is 14 times smaller than Bordeaux – and 14 times more complicated,”
Jean-Pierre told me. He took the example of Clos Vougeot, which, as an
appellation, includes some 50 hectares (about half if not one-third the size of a
single chateau in Bordeaux) – but with about… 80 producers!
Some of the best wines I tasted included the white Clos des Mouches 2001 with
intense nougat, mineral and red apple flavors and aromas and a very pleasing anise
finish. Coming from some 15 hectares of vines majority owned by Drouhin, this
wine also has a red version!
– and the site of meetings of Beaune’s medieval parliament. We went underneath
the some 1 ½ hectares of cellar space and entered what was once the parliament
room, now employed to organize meetings with producers who sell grapes to
Drouhin. It is an impressively elegant white-walled space: a Spartan style
decorated with bottles and maps of Burgundy.
“Burgundy is 14 times smaller than Bordeaux – and 14 times more complicated,”
Jean-Pierre told me. He took the example of Clos Vougeot, which, as an
appellation, includes some 50 hectares (about half if not one-third the size of a
single chateau in Bordeaux) – but with about… 80 producers!
Some of the best wines I tasted included the white Clos des Mouches 2001 with
intense nougat, mineral and red apple flavors and aromas and a very pleasing anise
finish. Coming from some 15 hectares of vines majority owned by Drouhin, this
wine also has a red version!
