The top Riesling from a tasting of 2005 German grands crus...

2005 struck me as a good year for some 22 top German dry Rieslings tasted in Berlin on 27 November 2011.

But also a good example to indicate the difference between fine dry Burgundy and fine dry German Riesling. Let’s face it. Dry in German can mean a bit sweet, at least for tasters like me, accustomed to most dry whites from France. Some exceptions, sure. But overall, comparing Burgundian Chardonnay with dry German Riesling – as some like to do – is rather apples and pears. Of course both are superb wines. And different. 2005, a vintage known for richness and fat, really highlights this difference. Perhaps a vintage like 2010, with more acidity, would make it less obvious?

First off, allow me to heap high praise on Jürgen Klucken for peerless organization and a terrific meal, along with extra wines for the various dishes, which included a velvety delicious home-made pumpkin soup with fresh croutons, a delectable quiche with mini asparagus, a fabulous Coq au Riesling (but of course), and a pineapple crumble with ice cream.

From A to Z, this was a great success, with friends and acquaintances in Berlin, a city I cannot praise enough: vibe, coolness, culture, easy goingness, economical, hip, etc etc…

Special thanks to my friend and fellow blogger Martin Zwick, whose notes are already up on the German wine forum: http://www.dasweinforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=1344

I stayed at the Palace Hotel, which cost €119 per night, including a superb breakfast. The comfort and attention to detail – a morning newspaper brought to the room free of charge, a welcome cake (which I did not touch), a request for a wake-up call – were all included in the most friendly manner. But that is Berlin for you: a friendly city. You make that remark to Berliners and they cannot believe it. But believe me, living in France, the difference is eindeutig. For €119, try to get the same quality in Paris.

Enough said.

The tasting had good rhythm: we started about 7 pm and ended at 1 am – lots of wine to taste, with dinner in between, and plenty of conversation and discussion. Jürgen served the wines blind in flights of two, to best compare. After tasting each pair, some discussion ensued, with the more experienced tasters guessing from which region the Rieslings may have come. Lovely glassware from Zalto Denk’Art, glasses that are very light and thin and made of crystal. I will buy some.

All 2005s…  wines in bold, I liked; in red and bold even more, when underlined, the best

Flight One

Von Othegraven Kanzem Altenberg Riesling (Mosel). This showed a rather pleasing nose, a bit sweetish, some white pepper purity, with a palate that was full bodied yet a touch bitter on the finish. Turns out to be 14% alcohol, so probably not much residual sugar. 88

Van Volxem Altenberger Alte Reben (Mosel) 12%. The nose is not as expressive, even slightly closed, but the palate is very sweet and somewhat cloying on the finish. I liked this less. Dry wine? I do not think so! 86

Flight Two

A Christmann “Idig” Königsbacher (Pfalz) 13%. A nougat nose, a bit soapy to me, although there was also some chamomile elegance, I suppose. The palate displayed, again, a certain over-rich thickness which is not to my personal liking. 87

Knisper Im Grossen Garten (Pfalz) 12.5%. Funny, this wine really divided the table. Some swore by it, others found it downright faulty. I personally preferred the nose as more Riesling like, with lemon lime aspects and hints of gunflint. But, yes, there was a bit of wet sock here that detracted. Still, the palate had more acidity – even mouth puckering – and I found this the better wine. 88

Flight Three

Weingut Markus Molitar Auslese Trocken Niedermenniger Herrenberg (Mosel), 13%. This was not a grand cru, but actually was by some accounts the wine of the entire tasting. OK, it was not dry, but so beguiling. The nose alone earned justified plaudits with spice, herbs, cinnamon and even curry. A “delicious” nose preceded an exciting palate with much substance and verve, to counterbalance the 9.6 grams of residual sugar. 93+

Uhlen Heymann Löwenstein “Roth-Lay” (Mosel). Now this disappointed everyone. It was very likely a faulty bottle, displaying an overly cheesy aspect. Not rated.

With first serving of dinner: Kürbissuppe- Pumpkin soup. Here we had a delicious Heymann-Löwenstein Röttgen that did show some botrytis spice and richness, but a perfect match for the soup… certainly much better than the problematic bottle earlier.

Pine-like freshness from Mandelgarten

Flight Four

Weingut Okonomiert Rebholz Kastanienbusch (Pfalz). 13.5%. Sweet licorice nose, some notes of pear, some botrytis spice. The palate is diluted but has some pleasant flavours. Nothing special here. 86

A. Christmann Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten (Pfalz) 13%. This has to be one of my favourites of the entire tasting, rivaling the Molitar. What fine pine freshness on the nose! Later it reveals a mint freshness with herbs. Very complex aromatics and flavours follow through on the somewhat delicate yet substantial palate. 93

Flight Five

Bürklin-Wolf Forster “Pechstein” (Pfalz). Apparently the village of Forst has only about 300 inhabitants. But it is known for its vineyards… Understandably with yet another lovely entry: floral notes with almost olive like aspects on the nose and palate, just very smoothly textured and agreeable. Fresh, too. 13% alcohol. 93

Georg Mosbacher Forst Ungeheurer (Pfalz). Also 13% alcohol, this wine is not quite as good but close – and very different in style. A brighter nose, but also some nougat sweetness precedes a juicy palate, although it finishes just a bit too thick. Still, there is greater intensity here. 92

Then came a delectable goat cheese quiche with Thai asparagus, almost all wanted a second helping, and I was lucky to get one J. One of the best wines of the tasting – although not tasted blind – was the Dönnhoff Dellchen (Nahe), lovely and crisp with lemon/lime freshness. This, to me, was one of the driest wines of the evening, and made me think of comparing it – for once – to white Burgundy, even Chablis. Elegant and well made. A wine to seek out, indeed. It also matched the richness of the quiche to a tee. 93+

Pure and crispy Donnhoff Dellchen Riesling: a perfect foil for rich quiche

We also had a fine Müller Catoir Breumerinden Mauern Haardter Bürgergarten. At 13.5% alcohol, this was more imposing than the Dönnhoff – and seemed to split the table. Some preferred its power, others found it wanting for grace. I liked its gun powder, tobacco and white pepper aspects and its palate texture, but given a choice, would probably also opt for the Dönnhoff. 92

Flight Six – the best flight! We reached the highlight with this flight…

Keller Kirchspiel (Rheinhessen). A beautiful nose of key lime pie, flowers and distinctly noble aromas precedes a palate that is very pure and really quite dry, but displaying nuances of orange rind, a bit of sweet grapefruit and stony mineral. The wine just got better and better in glass – and I think all of us just wanted to drink more of this than the other wines. A revelation? 95+

Wittmann Kirchspiel (Rheinhessen). The vineyards are side by side, but the styles are different. The nose is more evidently sweet, with nougat again, and also distinct notes of tobacco, which makes it intriguing – and good! The palate is also quite dry, but with a more amplified and dare I say slightly more rustic aspect than the Keller. Still, if it were not for the comparison, this wine ranks as high as the other top wines of this tasting… 93

Flight Seven

Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle (Nahe). Another wine that split the table, although there was a sense of a letdown overall. I liked the fine herbal nose, some eucalyptus that some compared to medicinal, and perhaps a hint of under-ripe vegetal? The palate was rather bright, if somewhat cloying on the finish. Overall, I got the impression of a wine that was a tad disjointed, but with time in glass, I grew to like it more. 91+

Schäfer Fröhlich Halenberg (Nahe). Subtle orange like nougat on the nose, but the palate is more like orange marmalade. There is a certain balancing freshness, but some incongruous botrytis notes detract as well. Less interesting here, but still good. 90+

Flight Eight

Georg Breuer Berg Rottland Rheingau. This wine clearly split opinions, some certain that it was corked. I thought I caught just a vague whiff of TCA, but later the wine seemed OK, as it did to others at the table. Not sure, because my tolerance for minimal TCA is generous perhaps compared to other tasters. In any case, it was a controversial bottle. For me, I liked the light apricot aspect of the nose, and a certain freshness. The palate was smooth and rather rich, but with grapefruit freshness. 90, as it did not seem faulty to me…

Emrich-Schönleber Monziger Halenberg (Nahe). Nougat and toffee on the nose but also brisk on the palate, assertive, bigger. Not as subtle as the preceding wine, however. 89+

Delicious Coq au Riesling: perfect choice for ... Riesling

The Coq au Riesling was perfectly prepared, with tangy skin and tender meat, matched with a fine Riesling based sauce that flavored the accompanying mushrooms and carrots and onions. Just delicious.

Flight Nine

Leitz Berg “Rottland” Alte Reben Rüdesheim (Rheingau). A dark colour and slightly oxidized. The nose was actually pleasing, with dry apricot, but veering towards oxidation. The palate was less interesting, although enjoyable through the mid palate, the finish seemed to hit a wall, with a touch of bitterness. 13.5% alcohol. 88

Georg Brauer “Nonnenberg” Monopol (Rheingau). At 13% alcohol, this wine seemed slightly faulty at first, with a bit of cheesy flavor. But time in glass helped, with notes of tobacco and freshness, although it seemed also to have a drying finish. 89?

Flight Ten

Keller Hubacker. A bit of a letdown, because it seemed so disjointed: I noted saline freshness on one level, but then all too much sweetness on another, lacking cohesion. The nose, however, seemed super promising: one of the most complex of the tasting, with ashes, citrus, apricot and melon. It just did not follow through on the palate, which left an overall impression of heat on the finish… but it could well be that this wine just needs time to come together, given the quite fascinating nose, so let’s just say 89 for now, but potential for a higher score in the years to come?

Creamy texture and taste: Wittmann Morstein Riesling

Wittmann Morstein (Rheinhessen). A clear winner here. A creamier nose, key lime pie and salt. Certainly friendlier on the palate, softer and smoother. Although not the most complex wine, it was doing its job to please the punter… Fine. 92+

We also had a lovely Suduiraut Sauternes 2001 from half bottle that needed time to open up. At first almost cloyingly sweet, but with time in glass, peppermint and black tea notes came to the fore, with a bit of cinnamon. This wine certainly needs time to lose some of that youthful baby richness… and it should reward patience. Even from a half bottle, 10 years later, this Sauternes is still far too young!

A dream with red mullet and coulis de tomate and red pepper...

Each week, a new wine. This week (11 October 2010), I tip my hat to Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet 1997. Not a great vintage, but my goodness what richness and body and length! Thank you to Micheal Lux for serving the wine – among others – and preparing a fantastic dinner to go with it. No signs of premox, just a healthy golden color that makes sense for a 13-year-old great white Burgundy from a decent but not great vintage. If you have this wine, drink up! And purr with pleasure…

What I think gets lost in these discussions about big or nuanced, oak infused or mineral, flavorful or thin, is the word freshness. And a sense of place. Bordeaux is not Burgundy, Burgundy is certainly not Australia, Napa is not Tuscany. And then the grapes of course and respective climates and corresponding vintages. So many factors.

Do I think that Bordeaux went too far with 100% oak, ultra low yields, jammy aspects, high alcohol. In some cases, Hell yes. But there are fresh Bordeaux made after 1990. There are big Bordeaux which can also be complex. Some just need time in bottle. Others are just balanced on a bigger scale. I tend not to like the bigger end of the scale, but that’s just my taste. Is the wine necessarily bad? I think not. But that’s Bordeaux, the place I know best in the wine world. I have had some Australian wines that have garnered high Parker points.  I tasted one at a friend’s house in France, and almost all the participants – except me – loved that wine. I think it was near 16% alcohol, and I felt it and did not like it. De gustibus non disputatum est…

But let me defend why I did care for that wine, or other wines in that ‘spirit’: they lack freshness. They speak with big flavors, oak-derived notes more often than not, scale and depth. Wow, that sounds impressive but it is not for everyone. I seek nuance. Nuance, expressed in a fresh manner. By freshness, I mean a feeling akin to smelling a bouquet of flowers, or perhaps a just rained on pasture or forest, herbal or mint aromas. Part of that freshness comes from a healthy amount of acidity (there are other factors, including grape varieties, winemaking methods, picking times and so forth). Most wines I like combine that freshness with body and structure and richness – good alcoholic content – but tending not to surpass 14 degrees, preferably between 12.5 and 13.5.  All that, to me, tends to create youthful complexity, when the wine comes at you from multiple angles and remains interesting from its attack and onto its hopefully long finish. Of course these elements have to be in balance and promise good ageworthiness.

But a key component to me in all this is the freshness. And a rush to make big wines ever bigger methinks leaves out freshness from the equation.

Well, there is much more to say and learn and discuss. I do not want to be too authoritative in what I say, but I do express my subjective opinion here and welcome comments! Please, do pitch in.

For now, off to the gym to shed some holiday pounds… Happy New Year!

C’est magnifique!

TULIP

The Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005, with 90% Cabernet, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, clocks in at 14.5% alcohol. It is good if unexciting. Certainly has varietal character. Far better is the Cabernet Franc 2007, with 85% Cab Franc and the rest Merlot. It is agreeable and fresher, and even though it has more alcohol, I feel it less. The upscale Black Tulip 2005, with 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, did not excite me as much. Finally, the White Tulip 2009 with 70% Gewurztraminer and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, was a bit of a caricature. Very varietal in nature, lacking the subtlety of the finer Gewurztraminers I love in Alsace, such as the Albert Mann Vieilles Vignes Furstentum Grand Cru 2002 I had the other night. But I suppose this is OK; call me Alsace biased .

VIDAN

The ‘entry level’ wine Blend des Noirs Tag Katom 2008 I liked most. With 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 25% Grenache, a New World 15% alcohol blend that works for its purpose: chocolate like flavors, pleasing fruit, ok nose, perhaps just a bit of heat but the chutzpa is there. I was not that impressed with the higher end Fringe Pro 2007 (blend of Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Grenache) which was a bit too overdone for me, with what seemed to be also some funk. Better was the Fringe Full Wine 2008, a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Syrah, although this too seemed to be un peu maquillé, with some drying tannins, but overall better.

DALTON

The Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, at 100% and just under 14% alcohol, seemed to lack full phenolic maturity, and so did the Alma 2008, which blends almost equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a bit of Cabernet Franc, although the Alma is better, with better sap. Their best wine to my mind is the Dalton Reserve Shiraz 2007, made from an Australian clone, but with 5% Viognier, inspired by Cote Rotie bien sur. Very nice nose, fruit and intensity, good palate albeit just slightly drying tannins on the finish. Excellent job with their Canaan White 2008, this mix of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat is a fun and easy going white, very well made.

GALIL MOUNTAIN

I particularly liked the quality of the wines from this producer. The basic Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 was fresh and full bodied, a good integration of alcohol at 15% although just a bit drying on the finish. The Shiraz-Cabernet 2006 is at least as good although shows nary a hint of typicity: 10 months in US oak, with an even more fruit forward character and almost sweet on the palate. Not oriented towards finesse but certainly flattering! Their best came from Yiron 2006, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon (62%) with just over 30% Merlot and the rest Syrah. Aged 16 months in French oak, this shows a fine nose, far more complex, with ashes coming perhaps from the Cabernet and a meatiness from the Syrah. A bit reduced, it needed time in glass – about 30 minutes – and it was delicious. Excellent. The Viognier 2008 is also very nice, the 15% very well integrated, but could it use just a bit less new oak?

GOLAN HEIGHTS (Yarden)

A legendary producer. The Mount Hermon Red 2009 was a very pleasant mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, at 14.5% alcohol, this goes down smooth and exudes fruity flavor. Nicely done! Although the Syrah 2005 showed a hint of nail polish reduction, that blew off. This wine is 14.5% alcohol and was aged 18 months aged in oak of which 25% is new. I like the peppery aspect here, shows good varietal character in a New World sense. A pleasure. More character is to be found in the Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. Aged for the same time, but I found more substance to this wine, more character. Very nicely made, but is there just a bit of heat on the finish? Three cheers for the Chardonnay 2007, which does not taste like it has 14.5% alcohol. It is fresh and agreeable, a very well made wine.

MARGALIT

Their Cabernet Franc 2007 was my favorite, almost all Franc but with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. I found it very pleasant to drink, somewhat warm but rather sexy, too. Although a higher end wine, their Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 I found much more austere, not very giving. Give it time? Finally, their higher end Enigma 2007, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot was just OK for me; I found a bit of funk which detracted.

I did not get a chance to taste the Vitkin wines, unfortunately, but look forward to trying more Israeli wines, perhaps when I return to the US.

Pichon Comtesse de Lalande

What a treat it was to be part of a three consecutive tasting dinners in three different German cities – Berlin on 11 November, Frankfurt on 12 November and Baden Baden on 13 November – with Château Angélus and Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande. The idea behind these events is to pair top quality food and wine for wine lovers and professionals – ITBers, sommeliers, merchants and bloggers – and, by that measure, all succeeded!

Each evening, participants tasted the same wines (although in Berlin we enjoyed two extra vintages). That way, one was sure to appreciate  drinking windows of vintages enjoyed, given bottle variation for older vintages, and given different ways of opening the bottles before each dinner. All three venues were great. We started in Berlin at the Sankt Moritz – a hidden gem of a restaurant for winos. Owner and sommelier Anton Stefanov is a wine lover’s restaurateur. It has been a pleasure to work with him over the last few years – we have co-organised tasting dinners with Gruaud Larose, with Pichon Baron and others. But in November it was with Jean-Bernard Grenié, co-owner of Château Angélus and with Gildas d’Ollone, general director of Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande. I think Anton’s team stepped up to the plate with the best dinner they ever prepared.

Château Angélus

Next stop was in Frankfurt, at the one-star Michelin restaurant Le Français of the celebrated Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof Hotel in the center of Frankfurt. I cannot emphasize enough that Le Français chef Patrick Bittner easily deserves two stars and not one. His dinner was magnificent, and the cheeses of Bernard Antony (link includes my article on his cheeses), including an amazing four-year old comté, matched perfectly the two 2005s. Unfortunately, the following morning, a thief stole my backpack – with digital camera, Flip video, brand new eyeglasses, Hewlett Packard computer and much more. That cast a slight pall on things, especially because I could not take any photos from the third wonderful evening…

Finally, we reached a crescendo at the thermal spa city of Baden Baden, just across the French-German border, where we enjoyed an excellent five course dinner at the Brenner Park Hotel and Restaurant. Chef Andreas Krolik was more than up to the task, proving his two-star Michelin rating. Once again, we enjoyed fine cheeses by Bernard Antony, with the cheese master himself enjoying the dinner at my table.

The Châteaux

Having fun with Jean-Bernard Grenié of Château Angélus (middle) and Gildas d'Ollone of Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande

Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande and Château Angélus are of two different styles, but both appeal to me. While Pichon Comtesse exudes classic elegance from the Left Bank, Angélus is more the modern Right Bank style. But it is “sneaky”, too. The 1989 Angélus, for example, was one of the two top wines of the double verticals, and it seems to be firmly on its plateau, and will stay there for some time yet. The estates literally crossed paths in the 2006 vintage, when Angélus winemaking director (and co-owner) Hubert de Bouard consulted Pichon Comtesse. The other wine I liked most over the three evenings was the Pichon Comtesse 1996, which is somewhat atypical for the estate, because of its rather high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%). Usually, Pichon Comtesse has more Merlot in the mix.

Here the tasting notes from the wines. I will update with more details on food and wine pairings soon.

2001 Ch. Angélus

60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet franc. This wine has really come into its own. I have tasted it fairly regularly over the years, and feel that it is now at its prime drinking window. Hint of leather and truffle, but still fruit driven. It is full bodied, but not as intense as, say, the 1998, or as evolved as the 1995. I feel that the 1998 is on a slower evolutionary track than either of these. But the 2001 is very nice to drink today.

2002 Ch. Pichon Comtesse

This wine is just too young to drink today, no matter how much air time is given, but Medoc like cassis is peeking through as are some pencil shavings. It would go very well with a steak in a pepper sauce, but as elegant as the tannins are today,  I would rather wait a few more years before trying this one.

Master Chef Patrick Bittner of Le Français at the Steigenberger deserves another Michelin star

1998  Ch. Angélus

Ah, this has to be one of my overall favorites from Château Angélus, close to the 1989. Rich black fruits with chocolate flavors all expressed with opulence and polish, as my friend and fellow taster Martin Zwick noted. You can drink this today, but also hold it with confidence. I think it will improve over the next few years.

1996 Ch. Pichon Comtesse

Here we are at the pinnacle of Pichon. Not since 1982 has Pichon made such a fine wine (and it may be rivaled by the supreme tasting experience of the 2009 barrel sample). The 1996 needs air. In Berlin, it did not get the carafe time it deserved. We learned our lesson and had it opened in Frankfurt about three hours before dinner, and then in an open carafe one hour before it was served. A spherical wine, certainly packed with flavor but hardly obvious. This wine marries grace with character, its Cabernet Sauvignon-driven nature (75% Cabernet Sauvignon) is expressed with distinct cassis and graphite, but so more voluminous than the 2002 will ever be, methinks. And it is very polished, somewhat like the Angélus 1998, which is, for its part, quite Merlot driven.

1995  Ch. Angélus

The 1995 Angélus seemed more serious a few years back, but I feel that it has evolved somewhat, giving off musk notes that are thoroughly seductive. About 50-50 Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it is very well balanced and delicious at the same time. I would say that one can easily enjoy it now, and that it is on a plateau.

Melt in your mouth braised ox with apple and perigord truffle paired with the two 1995s

1995 Ch. Pichon Comtesse

My, my, this is a wine I have underestimated in the past. I used to think it was a tad rough on the edges, but today – with adequate air time (about 90 minutes open in a carafe) – this wine exhibits delicious flavors and character. The Pichon 1995 was especially very good in Baden Baden, because it got the most air: it really needs some oxygen to show its stuff. There is something “sexy” about the 1995, certainly more edgy than the 1996, but I would agree that the 1996 is a superior wine, one that will last longer and also is more spherical today: as already said, a candidate for best wine overall of all three tastings. There is much finesse nonetheless with the 1995, and the prominent tannin is melting. I recall trying this for the first time back in 2004 and it was tight as a drum. If you just open it and pour, it may still seem that way. But if you aerate properly, it will be more than ready to enjoy in 2011.

1989  Ch. Angélus

A glorious wine. After the dinner, when many of the Berlin guests had left, there was some left in another open bottle, and I poured myself generously. It was only the third time I had tried it since 2004, when I hosted a vertical on Nantucket Island in May that year. I think that the 1989 is better than the 1990 because it has more structure. As much as the 1990 can seduce you with richness, the 1989 matches that richness and raises the stakes with greater body and length. This along with the Pichon 1996 are perhaps my two favorites of the verticals.

Pigeon with corn and butter paired with Angélus 1998 and Pichon Comtesse 1996: dreamy

1988 Ch. Pichon Comtesse

Coming from the first of three fine Bordeaux vintages in a row, the 1988 is somewhat overshadowed by the 1989 and 1990, but Pichon did a fine job with the 1988. Not as immediately appealing as the Angélus 1989, the wine with which it was paired in Berlin, the Pichon 1988 took more time to open, and we made the error of not aerating it as much as we should have: it improved in glass.

2005  Ch. Angélus
The 2005 is big today, even a bit port like, yet it has much potential. Co-owner Jean-Bernard Grenié said that it will end up like the 1989, so that sounds very good to me. I recall tasting it back in December 2008, and it compared favorably to the Angélus 2000, which to me seems more massive and less elegant.

Bernard Antony cheeses including four year old comté... with both 2005s

2005 Ch. Pichon Comtesse

A lovely wine that quenches one’s thirst. I seriously misjudged this wine en primeur. So did the great wine critic Robert Parker. It exhibits such freshness and finesse that I found myself going back to it regularly. Certainly easier to enjoy today than the Angélus 2005, it exhibits telltale cassis and graphite but also a certain (Petit Verdot driven?) spice. Interestingly, one week later, over dinner in London with Neal Martin, the at large critic for Robert Parker, we spoke about this vintage and Neal noted that he was one of the few critics to grade this Pichon highly. He was right. It may lack the oomph of the 1996, but it is a lovely wine and still selling for a decent price, so I would not hesitate to buy.

Scene from the Berlin tasting

25 September 2010. Berlin. I was invited by wine and food enthusiast Martin Zwick, where he gathered other tasters, including professional wine merchants, journalists, bloggers  and the well-known German winemaker Hans Oliver Spanier. The occasion was the ‘Berlin Riesling Cup’ when we tasted 29 grand cru Rieslings from the 2009 vintage (plus one ringer): some very rare and not yet tasted by the professional press. Martin picked the wines and Klaus Peter Keller of the famous Keller winery chose which would be put into 15 flights of two wines. The wines were opened the morning of the tasting, which began at 6 p.m. on 25 September.

Participants
Jürgen Klucken (a veteran wine taster, with whom I have had the pleasure to taste in Berlin since 2005)

Frank Ebbinghaus (speech writer for the mayor of Berlin)

Thomas Iversen (A Danish wine lover with a Champagne blog ‘Mad About Wine’ whom Martin had met before in Berlin)

Claus Lyster (Another Danish taster)

Nikolai Lassmann (A friend of Martin’s who tallied the scores at the end of the tasting)

Ralf Behringer (A wine merchant in Mannheim)

Fedor Brunner (A lover of French and especially Italian wines, whom I have known since 2005 in Berlin)

David Strecker  (Another Berlin-based wine taster whom I have known since 2005)

Michael Liebert (A Munich-based sommelier)

Hans Olivier Spanier (A well-known German winemaker and rising star, Martin said. Known as ‘H.O.’)

The top of the pops

Each participant gave his score for the wines using the 100-point scale. The final average ranking changed somewhat – here final ranking by the group – when the lowest and highest scores given were removed. After the adjustment, the only non grand cru wine (and non Riesling) in the tasting, a Müller Thurgau made by a German journalist, Stuart Pigott, came in last. Keller’s G-Max was the top wine, both before and after the modification. My notes and scores follow below, with wines in red I like in particular and in red and bold I fell nearly in love…

About the 2009 vintage in Germany. The key, according to both Keller and Spanier, was to have picked later in 2009. In the Palatinate region (Pfalz), pickings tended to come a bit too early, they said – although exceptions exist. We also found at the tasting that many wines from the Rheingau seemed a bit flabby compared to other regions. The best wines seemed to come from Rheinhessen, Mosel and Nahe, when winemakers waited through November to pick. Spanier explained that later picking for Riesling as cold weather set in was good for ‘conserving’ its mineral aspects. He also noted that on a general level – not among most of the wines at this tasting – 2009 had some excessive yields. But among the top, “10 to 15 wines” he said, are “probably the best ever done”… with “minerality, ripeness and balance.” Mr. Keller agreed, calling his G Max in 2009 “the best” he has ever made.

Living in Alsace, I have had my share of Alsatian Rieslings: from dry to sweet, from mineral to fruit driven. With one exception, we tasted Rieslings rated “grand cru” in Germany, which also means that all of the wines had no more than 9 grams of residual sugar, so the impression was mainly dry: some more than others, at least in tasting… the tasting was blind, too.

Flight One

First wine: fine aroma, tobacco, with lime-infused gunflint: interesting that it has a slightly darker color than the second wine. The palate started out good, but proved flabby on the mid palate, and rather warm on the finish, which lacked verve. Martin noted that this Rheingau wine is somewhat typical of the region, which in 2009 lacks energy… Schloss Johannisberg “Silberlack”, Rheingau. 13.5 alcohol. 86 points. I gave it a rather harsh score, because the nose was nice, although Thomas gave it an 84. It was the second least liked wine of the night.

Second wine: More mineral aroma. Good palate, albeit some sweetness on the palate, a bit of heat. The nose is not as expressive; a bit of carbonation on the palate; sprightlier. Dr Crusius “Felsenberg” GG Nahe. 13  alchohol.  90 points. 

Flight Two

Wine One (third): Pineapple aromas, fresh but a bit monolithic. The palate is better, although a bit sweet. A decent backbone overall, and the pineapple dissipates, as the wine tightens up. Dönnhoff “Hermannshöhle” GG Nahe, 13 alcohol. Indeed the pineapple comes from the botrytis, I understood. Although the wine improved in glass, I was disappointed because this estate has done better. 89 points. 

Wine Two: (fourth)

More mineral nose, less ‘obvious’ than the above. Licorice mineral notes merge with orange peel and petrol. Complexity!This is a special wine, methinks. Wait 10 years, remarked H.O. Just a sample, so we do not know the alcohol level. Georg Breuer 2009 “Berg Schlossberg”, Rheingau. This is an exception for the region, said Martin. A wine to seek!  93 points.

Flight Three

First wine (5) A beautiful nose! Fruit, yet mineral. Palate is linear, nice, rather complex. A bit herbal. Very impressive body combined with minerality. Perhaps a bit more alcohol than the next wine, a bit of heat? – But nice. Keller “Hubacker” GG, Rheinhessen. 13. Rheinhessen.  Complex spice on the nose. Minerality. Very fine. The only monopol wine so far, and one well worth seeking out.  95 points

Second wine (6) Licorice petrol aspect. Somewhat more typical nose. A bit more spritz. More energy.  Robert Weil Kiedrich “Gräfenberg”GG Rheingau 13.5. Fine, but nothing really extraordinary. Still, a good wine! 91 points.

 Flight Four

#4 First Wine (7) White color. Grapefruit freshness. Licorice. Beautiful. Good sap. Floral. Much more energy. H.O. remarked that this is the best ever produced by this estate. I can understand. Best wine so far for me… and it made the top four! The 13.5 alcohol is very well integrated. Schäfer-Fröhlich “Felseneck” GG , Nahe. 95,5 points perhaps 96! Buy this one.

Second Wine (8) Yellow color. Licorice. Buttery aspect but a bit slutty. Nice body. Lovely richness. But there is a monolithic aspect. Alcohol is present and the wines shows just a bit of fatigue.  Martin and Ralf liked this one, but Michael did not. 13.5 alcohol is felt. Kühling-Gillot “Pettenthal” GG 2009 Rheinhessen (Ecovin) 91 points

Flight Five 

First Wine (9) Cloying. A bit cheesy. Milky aspect? Just a bit. Palate is fine. Bit of a stony aspect. Schwefel? OK. But not my style… A Christman Königsbacher ‘IDIG’ GG Pfalz 13. Virtual monopol vineyard.  90 points. Most people liked it more than I did… Michael and I agreed. So did the Danes.

Second Wine (10) Another golden colour. Crystaline aromas of fruit. The palate is sweet green melon. Lovely freshness. Very long.  Beautiful wine. Good depth, length, and I like this far more than H.O.’s previous entry, wine #7…  Battenfeld-Spanier “Frauenberg” GG, Rheinhessen 13.5. Very nice job.  94 points

Flight Six 

First Wine (11). Fresh nose, a hint of sweet. Very powerful but holding it in. Beautiful wine. A bit sharper perhaps. Closed. But there is much potential. Reminds me of a young Clos St Hune, and I am not giving it red and bold now, but certainly at a later date, because it is as one taster put it, raw!  Keller “Morstein” GG. Far too young to drink now. 95 points

Second Wine (12) Subtle nose. Closed? Hints of stone and cherry pit? Fine wine, but the first wine is much more powerful in the sense of its potential. I get the feeling that this wine is giving more of itself now, whereas the first wine is going to better. But perhaps for now, drink this wine, which I like, as it grew on me.  Bürklin-Wolf “Pechstein” GC, Pfalz 13 alcohol. 92 points.

Flight Seven 

First wine (13) razor sharp. Stone like. The Danes and I were singing masochistic praises perhaps. The harvest began too early, said the others. Fedor also said that the acidity was too high. Mr. Spanier also found that the grapes in this wine were picked too early, in mid October. Also, he said that the wines in Germany, they are over-sulfured.  I liked this though, did not find it green; I found it young. Bürklin- Wolf “Kirchenstück” GC,  Pfalz 13 percent. A bit too sharp nonetheless. 92 points (amazing almost everyone came up with 92) 

Second wine (14) more slutty; there is a thicker aspect to this one, mineral. A bit too sweet in comparison? Probeflasche Keller “Abtserde”  GG 2009. It is a smoother wine, very lovely. Different style. Give it time? 4 stars. 93 points (many higher points)

Flight Eight (both are rare wines!)

First wine (15) Honey notes and crystalized fruit. Apricot. I love this wine. Apricot. Juicy yellow. The palate is fine, a hint of sweet or botrytis?  This is on the edge. There is a bit of late harvest aspect but remains dry, teasing you with sweetness? ‘Happy Birthday Mr President,’ joked Mr. Spanier!  Teasing the President with botrytis… I can drink this easily, and I did!  Just 400 bottles of this wine. 12.5  A.J. Adam/Haart Goldtröpchen “Laychen”,  Mosel. Beautiful wine! Very rich, yet dry and precise. Julian Haar, an intern with Keller and only 23 years old, made this wine. 94 points.

2nd PLACE! Second wine (16) Came in second place overall, well deserved.  A superstar. Very rich and nuanced. Has a mineral, slightly road kill aspect, but only slightly; so it becomes quality here! Mineral and petrol aspects; very subtle.There are only 240 bottles available! They will be auctioned this week, Martin said. Winemaker said he put 800 in his cellar. About 70 euros a bottle… Auction in Bad Kreuznach. Wittmann AlteReben “La Borne”  13.5. ‘The best Riesling I have ever tasted,’ said a couple of Danish wine experts. I was not that impressed, but this is a great wine. 96 points.

Flight Nine – DREAM FLIGHT! 

1st PLACE! Wine One (17) Gunpowder. Mineral. Raw yet ripe. There is a contained richness. Super wine. This is a wine I would not hesitate.  A taster – Nicolai – said that it was monolithic… Nah, it has volume. Give it time. There is a beautiful nose here. A smoky nose. Masculine. Keller “G-Max” 228 euros for the 2008! 1,200 bottles only.  95 points

... superb wine, superb price/quality ratio

3rd PLACEFlight Ten

Wine Two (18) Fresh floral. Smells like flowers. Lovely palate. Rich yet focused. A bit closed? I like the sensuality of this wine… Emrich Schönleber “Halenberg” GG , Nahe 13. What can I say about this wine? It is a revelation because it does not cost nearly as much as the preceding wine and the quality is not that different… Like Trotanoy to Petrus in a great vintage. BUY THIS ONE! 31 euros  95 points… Excellent price quality ratio… I am buying six of these.

Wine One (19) Lighter color. White pepper. Handsoap? Lavender. Nice fresh palate. I would like to buy the first one… over time the nose does not change much. Dr Loosen Erdener Prälat GG Alte Reben Mosel 93 points.

Wine Two (20) Darker color. Pinecone. Nice, sweet but not heavy, but not as pure as the first… Robespierre virtue? Shoot, the second one also has Nelke. Clou de girofle. Hints of burnt caramel? Nutmeg, too. But just a bit too evident for me. Kühling-Gillot “Rothenberg” Wurzelecht, GG Rheinhessen 13.5 alcohol  90 points.

Flight Eleven

Wine One (21) Fresh white fruit. Bit of citrus, more grapefruit. Good spritz. Almost candied. Lots of energy. Lacks some substance. OK. 91,5 points.  Von Winning “Langenmorgen ” (Deidesheim, Pfalz) 13 alcohol.  Still, this is pleasing overall!

Wine Two (22) Thicker texture. Heavier. Beethoven. I prefer the lighter Brahms of the previous wine. Or is it Bach? A bit thickly laid out pineapple, too. This is OK, but I get the feeling that it tries too hard. Müller-Thurgau made by a journalist, Stuart Pigott, his first wine… 87 points.

Flight Twelve

Wine One (23) Lighter color. Lovely cohesive wine, with elements of petrol and fruit, pear and other white fruit. I like this one! 92 points Dr. Bürklin-Wolf “Jesuitengarten “GC Pfalz 13 alcohol.

Wine Two (24) Closed nose. Chestnut aspect, a bit of tobacco? The palate is richer, perhaps a bit hotter? A wannabe Burgundy? It is good but falls short… I prefer the straightforward aspect of the first one. 91 points …  Wittman “Kirchspiel” GG Rheinhessen.

Flight Thirteen (a rather weak flight)

Wine One (25) Very pineapple, almost too sweet on the nose… the color suggests otherwise. The palate is better. Fresher. Brisk. A bit sour on the palate… Choucroute? 88 points. Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz “Kastanienbusch” GG,  Pfalz (a famous vineyard)12.5

Wine Two (26) Beautiful nose of tobacco and mineral albeit lessened by a certain pineapple aspect. Perhaps just a bit light in that sense. The palate is sumptuous however, if just a bit hot.  California Chardonnay? 88 points. Reinhold Haart “Goldtröfpchen” GG Mosel  13 alcohol.

Flight Fourteen

Wine One (27) Licorice. Candied complexity. Licorice. Dry freshness.  Candied. Sexier. Schloss Lieser “Juffer Sonnenuhr” GG Mosel 13 alcohol. 91,5 points

Wine Two (28) A somewhat closed nose. Pear, white fruit! Spright. Good energy. Like #21 but more substance. This has a bit more substance to it, but stays fresh and cool. I want to swallow the second. The nose is just better and better! Hans Wirsching “Julius-Echter-Berg”GG Franken 13 alcohol.  93 points

Flight Fifteen  

Wine One (29) Honeycomb biscuit aromas. A somewhat sweet palate but good acidity, too. Sweet peach aspect on the palate… but a bit cloying on the finish. 90 points? Weingut Friedrich Becker “Sonnenberg”,  Pfalz 12.5

Wine Two (30) Better nose. Somewhat smoke like but also more energy on the nose and on the palate… and there is a smoked salmon like taste I like combined with lime. Pleasing without being cloying. 93 points Van Volxem Scharzhofberger “Pergentsknopp” GG Mosel 12 percent

... delicious!

Dinner with a 14 percent alcohol Pinot Noir… a bit oaked and alcoholic… Philipp Kuhn Steinbuckel GG Pinot Noir Pfalz. 86 points. For me the highlight was that Martin prepared a superb meal of roasted rabbit with turnip. Delicious!

The group rankings

1 Keller, G-Max 96,75
2 Wittmann, “La Borne” Alte Reben 96,25
3 Emrich-Schönleber, “Halenberg” 96,13
4 Schäfer-Fröhlich, Felseneck 95,06
5 Julian Haart/Adam Goldtröpfchen “Laychen” 94,75
6 Keller Abtse®.de 94,25
7 Keller Hubacker 94,25
8 Kühling-Gillot, Rothenberg 93,63
9 Battenfeld-Spanier Frauenberg 93,63
10 Keller Morstein 93,25
11 Breuer, Schlossberg 93,00
12 Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp 92,86
13 Kühling-Gillot, Pettenthal 92,75
14 Loosen Erdener Prälat 92,38
15 B-W Kirchenstück 92,13
16 Becker Sonnenberg 92,00
17 Dönnhoff, Hermannshöhle, 91,88
18 Christmann, IDIG 91,63
19 Wittmann, Kirchspiel 91,38
20 Dr. Crusius, Felsenberg 91,13
21 Weil, Gräfenberg 91,00
22 B-W Pechstein 91,00
23 Von Winning Langenmorgen 90,69
24 B-W, Jesuitengarten 90,63
25 Wirsching Julius Echter Berg 90,63
26 Lieser Juffer Juffer Sonnenuhr 90,56
27 Rebholz, Kastanienbusch 90,13
28 Haart, Goldtröpfchen 88,71
29 Schloss Johannisberg 88,13
30 Pigott Müller-Thurgau 87,83

Orange. What a lovely city in Vaucluse, France, just outside Chateauneuf du Pape. The last time I was in Orange was in 2003, the year of the canicule, the incredibly hot vintage. I recall more the heat than much of the visits, although I do remember trying the Clos des Papes 2003 (in 2005), and its dry raisin-like finish (not my preference, the 2003 vintage). Copious Roman ruins in Orange include a mightily impressive amphitheater which I viewed at midnight because a new restaurant, La Grotte d’Auguste – exceedingly wine geek friendly – has been open at the foot of the stage since 2 years. Owners Fadil and Ati, of Albanian origin, invited me to scale the steps to the top of the Roman theater, which can seat almost 10,000. The owners of the restaurant are well known in these parts and very friendly. They are good friends with the owners of Beaucastel and Vieux Telegraph, whose great wines are generously featured on their list, which includes multiple vintages of other Rhone notables such as Guigal to various superb Champagnes, such as Krug and Dom Perignon. The are also exceedingly friendly, offering a glass of Roederer after a dinner of lobster salad and scallop on a skewer. Served with decent white Rhone wine.

A nice prelude to two morning visits at Clos des Papes and Le Vieux Donjon in Chateauneuf du Pape:

Tasting at Clos des Papes.

The welcome was as usual wonderful. This was my third visit to Clos des Papes, and Paul Avril told me about the terrible collapse of his room which fell on his cellars after faulty renovation in 2006. He lost 3000 bottles and has been in legal disputes with his insurance and the renovators. He barely escaped when the walls fell. Talk about a tough break. He was happy to have escaped with his life but sad – understandably – to have lost so many bottles because of a poor renovation job. Anyway, the tasting room was very nice, and more modern than the last time I had visited, back in 2005.

We were joined by a couple of New Zealand buyers and covered many topics. The 2003 harvest had finished on 3 October. It was interesting to retry this hot vintage, a Parker darling, but controversial. It tasted better than I thought it would, and Paul assured me that what I was getting as evolved notes would age well, that it would return to fruit in 10 years. Not sure what to think about this, but my overall feeling was that the 2005, which we had also tasted, is on a slower evolutionary track – and I got the same feeling trying both vintages, 2003 and 2005, at Le Vieux Donjon later that morning at the estate.

The Clos des Papes rendezvous was at 9.30 am, 22 July. It was a rather hot day, but overcast. Paul Avril expects to start the 2010 harvest in mid September, which is normal and not as precocious as 2009, he said.  We noted many 2008s ready to ship to four corners of the world, from Taiwan and New Zealand to the US and Germany. About 80% of Clos des Papes is exported, and only 8% to the US. Paul also showed us a chart of different tanks and initial blends of grapes – eight cuves for the 2009 vintage. We also noted a terroir profile with large cobblestones among the clay, underground, ‘so the galets are not just on the surface,’ he said. About 100,000 bottles produced in a normal year. 75,000 for 2009.

Paul Avril showing us a vat chart for the 2009 vintage

His corks cost 45 eurocents. The domain has bought its corks from the same company, near Perpignan, since 1926. Paul also has a nice collection of Leoville Las Cases and he gets two cases every year. He is friends with the owner, lucky bugger! And he trades wine for all sorts of things, from truffles and foie gras to other wines.

We started our tasting with Petit Vin d’Avril, which has been made since 1992, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Marselane (mix of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon), Carignan, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. The white is 100% Marsanne.

Petit Vin 2009. A blend of 2/3 2009 vintage and 1/3 2008 and various other back vintages. He uses some new oak here, waiting for the oak to get older for use for the Clos des Papes. This wine showed structure and power, not really a light table wine. Just a hint of new oak, for me at least, with a touch of heat, but there is freshness and fruit. Nicely done.

Clos des Papes 2008. Very fine cherry notes, licorice and charcoal. A smooth palate with verve. A fine vintage. Bought three from the property for about 35 euros each. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and the rest various Rhone varieties. Non filtered but fined with egg white. 15.2% alcohol.

Clos des Papes 2009. Representing 95% of the final blend. A bit reduced, but showing darker fruit, blackberry. There is much richness and full body on the palate, with dark chocolate notes. I like the brightness here that gives a fine sense of balance. The wine, with somewhat up front tannins, is not easy to taste at this stage, but it is sure to be very flavorful and rich. I could feel just a bit of the 15.2% alcohol, but it left an overall excellent impression.

Clos des Papes 2005; I understand why Wine Spectator liked this so much,,,

Clos des Papes 2005. Still too young, no doubt, but this was fresher, with strawberry and especially black cherry – kirsch – notes. Much licorice on the palate. Also about 15.2% alcohol, but very well balanced here. I would have loved to buy some bottles but none left for sale. ‘Come back and visit and we’ll drink some,’ he said. Will work on getting an article assignment…

Clos des Papes 2003. I found this one noticeably more evolved. I did not get as much fig and dried fruit as I was expecting, but there it was, with a touch of horse and creeping mushroom. Although, yes, mint and pine aspects came to the fore that made the wine more intriguing than I would have expected. As it sat in glass, I got more used to it.  Will this turn out to be the great wine Paul says it will? I have three bottles and will open one of them in five years to see where it will be then!

Paul Avril Vin de Table Blanc 2009. This one is 100% Marsanne and it had a bit of sweetness but some zest too. Vaguely lemon meringue like. A lovely white to drink with fish, I would think.

Clos des Papes Blanc 2009. This wine has many grapes, including the acidic Bourboulenc and Picpoul (15% each) to lend essential zip, Paul said, to his whites. It showed subtle notes of aniseed and acacia but the palate was firm and fresh. NIcely done!

Clos des Papes Blanc 2004. A bit of wet sock, at first. But it showed better on the palate, with a fresh and smooth feel. Popped and poured in the 15 degree cellar (it is 13 degrees in the winter), it could use 30 minutes in a carafe before service. I liked the overall feel of this white, and it would go well with scallops or sea bass.

Clos des Papes Blanc 2001. Almond and aniseed, with honey, this wine was nicely balanced and fresh on the palate but showing some butter aspects. One can still wait before enjoying this but it has started to enter its sweet mineral phase and it would go very well with lobster. I have one bottle in Washington D.C. …

Tasting six vintages with Claire Michel

At Vieux Donjon with Claire Michel, daughter of owners Marie Jose and Lucien. She had spent some time at Harlan Estate in the US, she said.

I arrived late for our 11.00 am meeting, which I had already postponed from 10.30 because of the Clos des Papes confirmation, but Claire was very gracious and had 6 vintages ready to taste!

14 hectare property. Usually about 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault and other grapes. No new oak, no special cuvee, like Clos des Papes. Mourvedre is vinified later. Three distinct parts to the vineyard: Large cobblestones and clay in the north, sand in Courthezon and drainy limestone – she said hotter soils – in the south, where much of the Mourvedre is planted. The property did not really come together until 1979. 90% exported. Mainly to the US.

2008. Did not get great press, Claire said. But this is more a classical vintage like 2004 or 2006, she said, and she likes the balance here more than in 2007 or 2003. Bright cherry fruit, with a suave feel on the palate. 14.8% alcohol. Successful.

2004. Wet sock aspect on the nose. More finesse on the palate but nothing too memorable here.

2006. Rather tannic. I can feel a hint of heat, but power, too. Perhaps more concentrated than 2008; certainly more than 2004. About 14.8-15% alcohol. Probably very good, but hard to taste at this stage. Closed.

2007. Hint of reduction on the palate. But what a leaping aroma coming from the glass. Just a hint of wet sock at first? The palate  is juicy and delicious and I drank some of this, no spitting. Flavors of blackberry and dark cherry. The best so far. 15.2% alcohol.

2003. Fig and hazelnut. More evident fig aspects than the Clos des Papes. The palate was marmalade like. Not as much nuance as the Clos des Papes. OK. But easily recognisable as 2003.

2005. Cherry flavors and aromas. Firm and tannic – not giving itself. But very nice. Very promising for the future, indeed. While not as hedonist and as pleasurable now as the 2007, I sense a longer future here, packed with succulence. This is one to seek out. Also no wet sock hints that I got with the 2004, the weakest wine of all. Favorite of all wines tasted.

new label for Vieux Donjon

A very fine 2008!

http://www.frischeparadies.de/deutsch/index.php?id=aktionen_frankfurt

After meeting with Jan, I had lunch with Harry H. Hochheimer, an old friend and wine dealer based just outside Frankfurt. He was as ever extremely busy with clients but found the time to organise a lunch with a client from the German state radio station Hessische Rundfunk. We enjoyed some great food from the radio station’s chef – they take pride in fresh ingredients so our spinach tart was made with fresh spinach, for example.

We tried a pair of Rieslings from the rather warm 2005 vintage. One Riesling called Kunstler was a bit fat, and its 13.5% showed. The other, Wegeler Winkel Jesuitengarten, which is not very expensive, was finer. At 12.5%. More precise if also a bit rich, just a bit. We also tried a sparkling Riesling which was good but unexciting. The same could not be said of the Pinot Noir, at 14%, from the 2007 vintage. Schneiders Einzelstuek Pfalz. At first it was very flattering, with some earthy stink but also rich jammy cherry fruit. I liked its palate presence and it surprised me as a particularly heady German Pinot Noir, with just a bit of volatile however. In glass, it got jammier, but was not boring. Harry liked it less than I did. I mentioned the Georg Breuer Riesling I had tasted earlier, and both Harry and his friend thought that the producer generally makes Rieslings that are too dry and mineral driven, bordering on sour, they said… Different strokes!