It was refreshing to read about smaller winemakers, more modest, who make ‘natural’ wines, with ‘no manipulation, no chemicals,’ he quoted Jean-Francois Fillastre of the 1.3-hectare Domaine du Jaugaret in Beychevelle-St Julien.

I am in Bordeaux to get a sense of the 2010 vintage just before harvest – where rain is sorely needed because grapes are too dry (indeed the famous consultant Jacques Boissenot told me in his lab at Lamarque, just south of St Julien, that the merlot grapes are 30% lighter than last year, with very thick skins and little juice).

In any case, I have also criticized the Bordelais for high prices. I have criticized the glitz and glamor as well, being fairly turned off by a visit to Chateau Latour during en primeur week, full of fawning writers and people in the business hungry for a rare allocation amidst an arrogant Fort Knox like ambiance. The wine is fantastic but costs a fortune and I like wines to drink… It is true that in 2009 many chateaux went haywire with prices. One of my favorite wines of Bordeaux, Chateau Figeac, for example, I found to be sold at far too high a price in 2009 compared to previous vintages (not nearly as crazy as Latour of course), and owner Eric d’Aramon was not very happy with my critique when I visited his chateau last week to taste some wines. In any case, Figeac, not modern in style by the way and yet one of those ‘luxury goods’ that Asimov describes negatively – is damn good wine.

Which is not something I can say about Domaine du Jaugaret. What Asimov strangely did not mention in his romantic description of the cobwebbed lamps and mushroom like mold of the cellars is a distinct vinegar smell as well. And why did he not mention the fact that Fillastre’s wine was not authorized to bear the St Julien label? Mr Fillastre spoke vaguely to me about ‘the authorities giving me trouble’ but when I spoke to locals in St Julien, people who sell wine in modest shops for example and who did not wish to be named, the reason is that there is a problem with his wines. A problem I could detect distinctly from the 2008 barrel sample which had acetic acid aromas. Now, the welcome in his modest domain was charming. It did remind me of visits to small domains in Burgundy. And we went to see some of his vines, 18 rows, between Ducru Beaucaillou (actually formerly Terry Gros Caillou recently bought by the 2nd growth) and Branaire Ducru, located not far from the inland Chateau Gruaud Larose. And I liked the 2007, which was frank and fresh, but nothing particularly amazing as Asimov would have you believe. Certainly not haunting. Still, Mr. Fillastre is indeed authentic, in the way he does things a ‘l’ancien’ as they say in France. But he also admits to not being able to control temperatures during fermentations. Something pretty basic. His agenda against ‘adding chemicals’ and ‘making natural wines’ is nice, but not everything a l’ancien is necessarily good. And if it is true that his wine sells for at least $60 a bottle in the US, and even up to $100, well I find that absurd.

Asimov would have done better to have tried a wine like Domaine Castaing also in St Julien and just near the vineyards of Jaugaret. The wines there are cleaner and cheaper. In fact, this domain, which has no problem obtaining a St Julien appellation authorization, has the same area of vines – about one hectare – and is also far more modest in terms of price: about 13 euros a bottle. Now that is more like it. It is hardly as good as a wine like the aforementioned Branaire Ducru for example, where there is much soul in making great wine. Same goes for Leoville Barton. Are these wines more expensive? Of course.

Like it or not, many of the ‘brand-name products’ Asimov criticizes take much more care in the vineyard and in the vat room, and they are not overripe or modern. The result is excellent wine that is – well, yes – more expensive.

There is a very well known American adage that Asimov’s ’soulful article’ (actually simplistic article) seems to ignore: You get what you pay for. Or at least you should…

For over 10 years now, I have been visiting Bordeaux at least twice a year, and I have come to like certain wines more than others. One of my favorites in the appellation of Pessac-Leognan, located in the southern Leognan part, is Haut Bailly. Chateau director Veronique Sanders and winemaking director Gabriel Vialard welcomed me to re-taste the 2009 along with the 2008 and 2007 blind, before a lunch at the chateau.

During the en primeur tastings I must have had a slightly off sample, tasted blind among other Graves 2009s, because the 2009 Haut Bailly was excellent in this tasting at the chateau. Gabriel poured the wines, masked by a cover.

Wine A showed good sap on the nose, rich with hints of charcoal. The palate was more austere, with a slightly short finish. I was thinking 2007. Coming back to it over time, it opened up in glass, showing good flavors, but just not quite as interesting as the other two wines. It was indeed the 2007.

Wine B showed a cooler, more discrete nose, which I liked more, even though it was not quite as flamboyant – the nose – as Wine A. It was like smelling blueberry for me, and the palate was more elegant and polished, somehow more complex. It turned out to be the 2008, something one could guess when coming to Wine C, which displayed an impressive nose of licorice and blackberry and a creamy palate that was not overbearing, in spite of the 13.7 alcohol.

Overall, Wine C was exciting wine, opulent yet precise.
Will it reach the heights of the 2005 (13.2 or 13.3)? I wonder if the 2005 – from memory – was perhaps more balanced, but the suave nose and unctuous texture of the 2009 please the palate, and there is much tannin and structure underneath, so it will be great to taste this once again from bottle. Although Gabriel said that, by 2009, work in the vat room had improved, that there was more precision, the 2009 had to be fermented at slightly lower temperatures, to prevent too much extraction, since alcohol levels were higher. The 2005 needed no such allowance, because the alcohol levels were not as high. Still, Gabriel feels that the 2009 is the smoother, less evidently tannic wine. It will be interesting to try both side by side in 10 years.

2010 so far (as of 1 September!)

After some initial problems during the flowering period, where Merlot was mostly affected, there has been very dry and warm if not always very hot weather throughout July and August. Some problems mainly for Merlot during the flowering period from late May and into June were due to millerandange or “shot berries” in which grape bunches contained berries of greatly different size and, most important, different levels of maturity. This seemed to have been set off by coulure, which was triggered by periods of cold nights in late May, when the Merlot was flowering, and sudden rains in June. Some Merlot flowers stayed closed, the caps did not come off, as Gabriel explained. Thus they were not pollinated and the grapes failed to develop. Because the Cabernets flowered later, and because they were not as sensitive to the coulure or millerandange, they were not as fragile to the weather conditions and are thus in far better shape.

Could this be a 1984, where almost no Merlot was used? Gabriel replied that the 2010 will almost certainly have less Merlot than usual. Veronique reminded me of the fine 1986 which was if I recall correctly almost all Cabernet Sauvignon. Flowering for Merlot was at the end of May; for Cabernet it was 10 June. The cap was not easily discharged for the Merlot during flowering…

Later in the day, at Domaine de Chevalier, owner Olivier Bernard spoke of a long, if not very cold, winter, with bits of frost in the later spring, followed by extremely dry if not very hot July and August. Rains fell in June, but in bursts, on two separate occasions. Since late June, it has been very dry: just 40mm of water for both July and August, which was confirmed later at Domaine de Chevalier. There was more rain in 2009 during the same period, said Olivier Bernard.

Every winemaker I have met said that a little rain would be welcome. Some heat stress was showing for younger vines, everywhere, with yellowing leaves. But many of the older vines or vines where the soil has been well worked – at Haut Bailly and at Domaine de Chevalier where I noticed the vines more carefully – the grapes look small andhealthy, with thickening skins, and this is a good sign.

Lunch at Haut Bailly was prepared by Tanguy Laviale, a chef who had worked in Michelin rated restaurants and who wants to learn more about winemaking, so he has been employed by Haut Bailly over the last year. He prepared an exquisite ravioli with freshly picked cepe mushrooms from the Dordogne region, with a savory parmesan crème, followed by a roasted rack of lamb perfectly cooked, just a bit pink, with subtly sweet potatoes with two somewhat incongruous if quirky coconut slices! The sauces and flavorings for both were subtle yet tasty, a perfect reflection of the wines: Haut Bailly 2001 and 2000. The 2001 showed very well, with some tertiary aromas as Gabriel pointed out, rather smoky and tobacco like, very Graves… It was a smooth wine, with good body and substance but never overstated, hardly ‘modern’ and I liked it a lot. But I have to tip my hat to the 2000 which seemed slightly closed in comparison, and at first misleadingly monotone. Time in glass showed a wine with lurking substance and a lovely richness, underscored by a pleasing charcoal like aspect. It was like you took the 2001 and put in through an amplifier. Both show the class of this wine, but the 2000 is just a bit more pronounced, and likely on a slower evolutionary track.

Domaine de Chevalier

At Domaine de Chevalier, I had very much liked both the white and the red 2009 during the en primeur tastings. In fact, the red was one of their best ever for me. Tasted again, it was just a confirmation. Top- of-the-line Pessac Leognan and the price is not as high as many others in its class. For those of you on budgets, but still tempted by Bordeaux 2009, go for Domaine de Chevalier… I also tasted some back vintages, starting with the 2006 this time. Technical manager Thomas Stonestreet – he is French but his family originally came from the UK – was on hand to guide me through the tasting, as was Xavier Planty of Chateau Guiraud in Sauternes.

We started with the reds. The 2006 is very fresh on the nose and shows fine richness on the palate, but not overdone. This is a wine like Haut Bailly: classy and rich but not big. The 2006 is one I would look for: if you can get a good price, do not hesitate. It is like a mini 2009.

The 2007 is pretty but just a tad angular. Going back to it later, I liked it and suppose it would be a good dinner wine for the next few years.

The 2008 was slightly more refined than the 2007 but not as much better as I was expecting. It was a bit closed actually, so it was slightly difficult to judge.

When we got to the 2009, I was met with a minor explosion of black fruits and perfume. There was a real purity to the nose and the palate that really transcended the other wines tasted before: here we have a very special wine. At 13.8 alcohol, I thought I caught just a bit of warmth, but it was ephemeral. Once again, it will be very interesting to compare the 2005 with the 2009 in 10 or 15 years. As much as I am charmed by the 2009, I wonder if the 2005 will prove more balanced… And let’s not forget the lovely 2000s, the initial ‘vintage of the century’ of this last decade!

The whites of Domaine de Chevalier can rival those of Haut Brion. And they cost much less. One finds a real precision and purity in almost every vintage. The 2006 seems almost ready to drink because it has a more evident richness that is beguiling, displaying what Xavier Planty noted as the telltale Domaine de Chevalier ‘laurel leaf’ aroma. I was getting just slight beeswax but ever so subtle! Certainly some grapefruit freshness. An artful combination of richness and verve.

The 2007 is tighter and more closed in on itself, but as I noted back in January this year and again in March, when previously tasted, that this is a wine that will be great in a few years. Seems to have more potential and on a slower evolutionary track than 2006.

The 2008 has even more acidity. Thomas says that it will outlast the 2007 but I am wondering if perhaps it is a bit too tight for its own good? Certainly this wine will shine, and I like its razor focus, but I wonder if 2007 shows more balance, more ‘comforting’ richness.

The 2009 was hard to taste, a bit yeasty, but quite rich and yet very disciplined. Some candied grapefruit and orange rind. Well on its way!

Malartic Lagraviere

I have more recently begun tasting the wines of this estate and the Bonnie family is ever so welcoming, too. Michel Rolland advises them in the winemaking. So, yes, there is a more “modern” aspect here compared to the previous estates, but they are all very well made and the price point for the quality is excellent as well: very important to consider. I recall enjoying both the white and the red in 2009, and in 2005 but also in other vintages, this estate does well.

As at Haut Bailly, I tasted these wines blind and owner Jean Jacques Bonnie had prepared the corks under different tissue papers so he would know which was which. I did not know that he had done so, and, taking a photo of the masked bottles, I cleared away the tissues! So when he came back, he said this will be blind for both of us… And we did figure it out. All three wines had a certain fullness to them that made them more similar than different, but the vintages were discernible.

Wine A was thickly laid out on the palate, showing good sap and yet freshness on the finish, also marked by some notable tannin that gave it more gravitas than Wine B. It turned out to be the 2008.

Wine B seemed to show more oak influence, but a somewhat metallic aspect on the nose and just slightly short finish made me think it was the 2007, but I was not too sure. Like Wine A, there was a kind of thick aspect to it, with oak, although time in glass revealed some pleasing floral notes. It was indeed the 2007.

Wine C I thought was the 2009, with a far more pronounced nose and greater substance and weight on the palate. It was certainly fuller in body than either of the previous wines. It was indeed the 2009, which I had graded highly en primeur, and like today as well.

As for the whites, also blind, the first wine – 2008 – was very lemon pie like on the nose. A lip smacking palate, too. Very pleasing, with good acidity.

The next wine was the 2009, which fooled me, because it was so light colored and also showed fine acidity with a tea-like aspect. The fruit was a bit muzzled, as the wine is still aging in barrel. But this shows fine promise.

Finally, the 2007 was noticeably darker in color. It showed pleasing notes hints of mahogany and tobacco on the nose, a fulsome palate, both pleasing and pleasurable, with finesse.

Many thanks to all three estates for having me over to taste their wines.

More notes coming… photos, too!

Below a news brief just published today (30 July) on decanter.com. I would like to add some input from Pascal Delbeck, winemaker at Tour du Pas St Georges, near St Emilion, who said that if August is hot and dry, there could be a risk of heat stress and a delayed harvest because of that. He said that 20mm of rain, twice, would be just what the doctor ordered… Anyway, read on

French wine regions take stock of 2010 harvest
July 30, 2010
by Jane Anson, and Panos Kakaviatos

As August approaches, wine regions across France are beginning to assess the quality potential of 2010.

In Champagne, yields have been set at 10,500 kilos per hectare, up 8% on 2009 (when it was 9,700), to reflect an increase in exports – although this is still a long way from the high in 2008 of 13,000 kilo per hectare.

In Bordeaux, according to Météo France, June was the hottest for 35 years, and the first two weeks of July were the hottest since 1921, raising fears of another 2003 harvest.

The heat has been mixed with rain, however, particularly after flowering in May, so there is some coulure (or ’shatter’, where the grapes do not develop well after flowering).

Veronique Sanders at Chateau Haut Bailly told decanter.com, ‘For the moment, the outlook is superb… the vines are magnificent and the harvest looks to be abundant.’

Alsace vintners expect a ‘classical harvest’, with some threat of mildew from recent rains – although the region had hot and dry weather throughout much of July.

‘We had a difficult flowering, too,’ said oenologist Thierry Fritsch of the Alsace Wine Union CIVA, ‘which delayed things for about three weeks.’

But the fine weather throughout most of July ‘accelerated the process so that we should expect a normal harvesting season, starting about mid-September.’

Paul Avril of Clos des Papes in Chateauneuf du Pape also expects a ‘more classic vintage’ with a later harvest than 2009.

In Burgundy, Sylvain Pitiot of Clos de Tart in Morey St Denis also evoked a difficult flowering period marked by coulure, because of cold weather and rain, which delayed the growing season for at least two weeks.

But ‘a super month of July’ has helped to speed up the process. ‘For most vineyards throughout Burgundy, I expect 2010 to have an average and perhaps slightly later than average harvest,’ he said.

Still, the coulure will mean that there will be ‘about 20% less volume compared to an average harvest,’ he added.

Orange. What a lovely city in Vaucluse, France, just outside Chateauneuf du Pape. The last time I was in Orange was in 2003, the year of the canicule, the incredibly hot vintage. I recall more the heat than much of the visits, although I do remember trying the Clos des Papes 2003 (in 2005), and its dry raisin-like finish (not my preference, the 2003 vintage). Copious Roman ruins in Orange include a mightily impressive amphitheater which I viewed at midnight because a new restaurant, La Grotte d’Auguste – exceedingly wine geek friendly – has been open at the foot of the stage since 2 years. Owners Fadil and Ati, of Albanian origin, invited me to scale the steps to the top of the Roman theater, which can seat almost 10,000. The owners of the restaurant are well known in these parts and very friendly. They are good friends with the owners of Beaucastel and Vieux Telegraph, whose great wines are generously featured on their list, which includes multiple vintages of other Rhone notables such as Guigal to various superb Champagnes, such as Krug and Dom Perignon. The are also exceedingly friendly, offering a glass of Roederer after a dinner of lobster salad and scallop on a skewer. Served with decent white Rhone wine.

A nice prelude to two morning visits at Clos des Papes and Le Vieux Donjon in Chateauneuf du Pape:

Tasting at Clos des Papes.

The welcome was as usual wonderful. This was my third visit to Clos des Papes, and Paul Avril told me about the terrible collapse of his room which fell on his cellars after faulty renovation in 2006. He lost 3000 bottles and has been in legal disputes with his insurance and the renovators. He barely escaped when the walls fell. Talk about a tough break. He was happy to have escaped with his life but sad – understandably – to have lost so many bottles because of a poor renovation job. Anyway, the tasting room was very nice, and more modern than the last time I had visited, back in 2005.

We were joined by a couple of New Zealand buyers and covered many topics. The 2003 harvest had finished on 3 October. It was interesting to retry this hot vintage, a Parker darling, but controversial. It tasted better than I thought it would, and Paul assured me that what I was getting as evolved notes would age well, that it would return to fruit in 10 years. Not sure what to think about this, but my overall feeling was that the 2005, which we had also tasted, is on a slower evolutionary track – and I got the same feeling trying both vintages, 2003 and 2005, at Le Vieux Donjon later that morning at the estate.

The Clos des Papes rendezvous was at 9.30 am, 22 July. It was a rather hot day, but overcast. Paul Avril expects to start the 2010 harvest in mid September, which is normal and not as precocious as 2009, he said.  We noted many 2008s ready to ship to four corners of the world, from Taiwan and New Zealand to the US and Germany. About 80% of Clos des Papes is exported, and only 8% to the US. Paul also showed us a chart of different tanks and initial blends of grapes – eight cuves for the 2009 vintage. We also noted a terroir profile with large cobblestones among the clay, underground, ’so the galets are not just on the surface,’ he said. About 100,000 bottles produced in a normal year. 75,000 for 2009.

Paul Avril showing us a vat chart for the 2009 vintage

His corks cost 45 eurocents. The domain has bought its corks from the same company, near Perpignan, since 1926. Paul also has a nice collection of Leoville Las Cases and he gets two cases every year. He is friends with the owner, lucky bugger! And he trades wine for all sorts of things, from truffles and foie gras to other wines.

We started our tasting with Petit Vin d’Avril, which has been made since 1992, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Marselane (mix of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon), Carignan, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. The white is 100% Marsanne.

Petit Vin 2009. A blend of 2/3 2009 vintage and 1/3 2008 and various other back vintages. He uses some new oak here, waiting for the oak to get older for use for the Clos des Papes. This wine showed structure and power, not really a light table wine. Just a hint of new oak, for me at least, with a touch of heat, but there is freshness and fruit. Nicely done.

Clos des Papes 2008. Very fine cherry notes, licorice and charcoal. A smooth palate with verve. A fine vintage. Bought three from the property for about 35 euros each. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and the rest various Rhone varieties. Non filtered but fined with egg white. 15.2% alcohol.

Clos des Papes 2009. Representing 95% of the final blend. A bit reduced, but showing darker fruit, blackberry. There is much richness and full body on the palate, with dark chocolate notes. I like the brightness here that gives a fine sense of balance. The wine, with somewhat up front tannins, is not easy to taste at this stage, but it is sure to be very flavorful and rich. I could feel just a bit of the 15.2% alcohol, but it left an overall excellent impression.

Clos des Papes 2005; I understand why Wine Spectator liked this so much,,,

Clos des Papes 2005. Still too young, no doubt, but this was fresher, with strawberry and especially black cherry – kirsch – notes. Much licorice on the palate. Also about 15.2% alcohol, but very well balanced here. I would have loved to buy some bottles but none left for sale. ‘Come back and visit and we’ll drink some,’ he said. Will work on getting an article assignment…

Clos des Papes 2003. I found this one noticeably more evolved. I did not get as much fig and dried fruit as I was expecting, but there it was, with a touch of horse and creeping mushroom. Although, yes, mint and pine aspects came to the fore that made the wine more intriguing than I would have expected. As it sat in glass, I got more used to it.  Will this turn out to be the great wine Paul says it will? I have three bottles and will open one of them in five years to see where it will be then!

Paul Avril Vin de Table Blanc 2009. This one is 100% Marsanne and it had a bit of sweetness but some zest too. Vaguely lemon meringue like. A lovely white to drink with fish, I would think.

Clos des Papes Blanc 2009. This wine has many grapes, including the acidic Bourboulenc and Picpoul (15% each) to lend essential zip, Paul said, to his whites. It showed subtle notes of aniseed and acacia but the palate was firm and fresh. NIcely done!

Clos des Papes Blanc 2004. A bit of wet sock, at first. But it showed better on the palate, with a fresh and smooth feel. Popped and poured in the 15 degree cellar (it is 13 degrees in the winter), it could use 30 minutes in a carafe before service. I liked the overall feel of this white, and it would go well with scallops or sea bass.

Clos des Papes Blanc 2001. Almond and aniseed, with honey, this wine was nicely balanced and fresh on the palate but showing some butter aspects. One can still wait before enjoying this but it has started to enter its sweet mineral phase and it would go very well with lobster. I have one bottle in Washington D.C. …

Tasting six vintages with Claire Michel

At Vieux Donjon with Claire Michel, daughter of owners Marie Jose and Lucien. She had spent some time at Harlan Estate in the US, she said.

I arrived late for our 11.00 am meeting, which I had already postponed from 10.30 because of the Clos des Papes confirmation, but Claire was very gracious and had 6 vintages ready to taste!

14 hectare property. Usually about 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault and other grapes. No new oak, no special cuvee, like Clos des Papes. Mourvedre is vinified later. Three distinct parts to the vineyard: Large cobblestones and clay in the north, sand in Courthezon and drainy limestone – she said hotter soils – in the south, where much of the Mourvedre is planted. The property did not really come together until 1979. 90% exported. Mainly to the US.

2008. Did not get great press, Claire said. But this is more a classical vintage like 2004 or 2006, she said, and she likes the balance here more than in 2007 or 2003. Bright cherry fruit, with a suave feel on the palate. 14.8% alcohol. Successful.

2004. Wet sock aspect on the nose. More finesse on the palate but nothing too memorable here.

2006. Rather tannic. I can feel a hint of heat, but power, too. Perhaps more concentrated than 2008; certainly more than 2004. About 14.8-15% alcohol. Probably very good, but hard to taste at this stage. Closed.

2007. Hint of reduction on the palate. But what a leaping aroma coming from the glass. Just a hint of wet sock at first? The palate  is juicy and delicious and I drank some of this, no spitting. Flavors of blackberry and dark cherry. The best so far. 15.2% alcohol.

2003. Fig and hazelnut. More evident fig aspects than the Clos des Papes. The palate was marmalade like. Not as much nuance as the Clos des Papes. OK. But easily recognisable as 2003.

2005. Cherry flavors and aromas. Firm and tannic – not giving itself. But very nice. Very promising for the future, indeed. While not as hedonist and as pleasurable now as the 2007, I sense a longer future here, packed with succulence. This is one to seek out. Also no wet sock hints that I got with the 2004, the weakest wine of all. Favorite of all wines tasted.

new label for Vieux Donjon

A very fine 2008!

http://www.frischeparadies.de/deutsch/index.php?id=aktionen_frankfurt

After meeting with Jan, I had lunch with Harry H. Hochheimer, an old friend and wine dealer based just outside Frankfurt. He was as ever extremely busy with clients but found the time to organise a lunch with a client from the German state radio station Hessische Rundfunk. We enjoyed some great food from the radio station’s chef – they take pride in fresh ingredients so our spinach tart was made with fresh spinach, for example.

We tried a pair of Rieslings from the rather warm 2005 vintage. One Riesling called Kunstler was a bit fat, and its 13.5% showed. The other, Wegeler Winkel Jesuitengarten, which is not very expensive, was finer. At 12.5%. More precise if also a bit rich, just a bit. We also tried a sparkling Riesling which was good but unexciting. The same could not be said of the Pinot Noir, at 14%, from the 2007 vintage. Schneiders Einzelstuek Pfalz. At first it was very flattering, with some earthy stink but also rich jammy cherry fruit. I liked its palate presence and it surprised me as a particularly heady German Pinot Noir, with just a bit of volatile however. In glass, it got jammier, but was not boring. Harry liked it less than I did. I mentioned the Georg Breuer Riesling I had tasted earlier, and both Harry and his friend thought that the producer generally makes Rieslings that are too dry and mineral driven, bordering on sour, they said… Different strokes!

I was reading through an old Economist article, from one of the February 2010 issues (don’t ask me why) and came across the statistic that in 1975, French workers on average took 1 hour and 38 minutes for lunch. Today, it is more like half an hour. Now, I know that for many busy Americans, worktime lunch has long been reduced to a 20 minute sandwitch and/or salad – at best – while guzzling down a preferred mass manufactured drink. But could this quick eating be part of a larger problem of not taking the time needed for a midday break? Of adding to a general sense of stress? Of why we end up ’snacking’ calorie-filled junk to compensate, adding new waistline over time?

When I first arrived in Paris back in 1992, I recall seeing so many French people sitting out having a lunch with wine during the week. A friend commented, ‘I hope that none of those people is a surgeon’ and then later asked the question. Apparently, surgeons are by law not allowed to drink alcohol during the working day…

Another related law is that parking meters in some French cities – in Strasbourg at least – were valid from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 7 pm. In other words, the meter maids did not have to bother checking the meters from noon to 2 pm, because they, too, were eating lunch…

Just a pseudo sociological thought for today . Back to our regularly scheduled programming.